Published in The Fashion Network Magazine, Fall 2020 edition
By Vivian La
Fraying jeans, an exposed bra strap, or an unusually bold lip color — all accepted as unprofessional over the decades.
At the surface, one likely isn’t aware of denim’s role in symbolizing the middle class, or of the bra-burning feminist movement of the 1970s, or association of red lipstick and political power. Cultural and historical factors have made seemingly trivial things significant.
What someone wears is never simply cloth on a body. Everyday, we make unconscious decisions about what to wear that play into gender and societal norms, while projecting an image to others. Aware of it or not, clothing can reflect personal values and tell a story about the individual underneath.
Throughout history, clothing has been an indicator of social rank, a creative outlet, and increasingly prominent in politics and activism in recent years.
The relationship between politics and fashion represents how outward appearance can be symbolic of internal beliefs and arguments. Our society’s emphasis on appearance makes one’s body a canvas. There is power in how one chooses to present themself and the medium is clothing.
“How we get dressed touches upon the deepest philosophical questions of who we are, how we see ourselves and others, and how we dress to face the world,” University of Illinois Gender and Women’s Studies Professor Mimi Nguyen said.
The suffrage movement in the early 20th century featured the color white, and is a lasting symbol of women’s rights. Vice President Elect Kamala Harris was dressed in all-white during her acceptance speech. At President Trump’s 2019 State of the Union Address, all the female legislators wore suffragette white, creating a striking visual statement about the Trump administration’s handling of women’s issues. Both instances sent a message of solidarity without explicitly saying so.
This year’s contentious elections have illuminated how clothes can send a message about the importance of democracy, from Jill Biden’s knee-high “VOTE” boots, Michelle Obama’s “Vote” necklace, to face masks endorsing political candidates.
Additionally, standards of beauty can intersect with politics, especially when political power is involved. Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez comes to mind for Nguyen. Attacks on AOC suggesting that being fashionable and a serious politician are contradictory perpetuate a harmful gender stereotype about what fashion is, according to Nguyen.
“It’s clear that what enrages them about her, is that she completely rocks the red lip at the same time that she demands recognition as an immensely serious thinker and strategist,” she said.
Stereotypical views of fashion and what is “appropriate” will always dominate workplaces, even in our nation’s highest offices. Attempting to separate the presentation of outward appearance from politics and power is a disservice to fashion’s impact as well as contradictory to the, at times, superficial way politics is conducted.
Fashion has also been crucial in social and reform movements. Clothes have been used historically to spark revolution, encourage dissent, or show solidarity.
Activism and fashion have evolved, from the 18th century French sans-culottes (meaning “without breeches”, worn by the aristocratic class) movement to represent the middle class, to the bra-burning feminist movement of the 70s, and fashion designers’ refusal to dress Melania Trump after the 2016 elections.
Additionally, social media and the internet — combined with growing political polarization — has increased consumer activism. Where consumers shop for their clothes has become a powerful tool. It has forced companies to be held responsible for racist behavior in the past, commit to future inclusivity, and overall listen to their consumers in important issues.
And especially with this year’s historic protests at the killing of George Floyd and the subsequent calls to end systemic racism, there’s growing pressure on the fashion industry to address their own role in the system.
But claims of tokenism, hypocrisy, and apologies for the sake of PR have circulated following many companies’ statements, like in the case of Vogue and their editor-in-chief Anna Wintour. So for many consumers, the importance of company values has increased as people search for brands that align with personal values.
Within the fashion industry, “response will be slow in coming, if there is one besides some opportunistic branding,” Nguyen said.
Overall, society’s emphasis on outward appearance makes it hard to deny fashion’s role in the realm of politics and activism.
“It is a matter of concern, control, and anxiety not just for the individual, however, but also for society, and for the government,” Nguyen said. “Clothing matters because it is through clothing that bodies are so often made to matter.”
It isn’t superficial to recognize the function of appearances and looks in our society. Because of its ability to convey messages without verbal cues, outward appearance is powerful in creating and expressing meaning. And in politics, that power is incredibly important.
“Surfaces are absolutely how we interact with the world – it is what is available to our senses,” Nguyen said, “It’s important to keep in mind that surfaces are full of depths, histories, and meanings, which makes them infinite.”
Vivian La 